Here are some simple tips to help make your next painting project a little easier.
As well as helping you get through your next paint job as quickly as possible, these simple tips will also help you get a finish a professional would be proud of.
Always use quality equipment
This is the biggest tip you can get as a painter. Buy only the best quality brushes and rollers you can afford. Good quality brushes will give you better coverage and leave less brush marks. Using cheap equipment is more likely to drop bristles and fibres. You have to spend time picking them out and going over the job again. Better quality brushes also last a lot longer, saving you money in the long run. If you care for your equipment properly you can expect it to last for years.
Do you want clean, straight lines between walls and trim and to prevent paint getting on the glass of a window? Always use masking tape. You can find specialised painter’s tape which is not as sticky as regular masking tape and will pull off without taking your freshly painted job with it.
Wrap it up
When you take a break or change to a different task, wrap your brush or roller in cling wrap. This will save time washing them. The trick is to load the brush or roller with paint first. This will ensure the air can’t get in, which will dry out the paint.
Sand between coats
Always sand between coats. This will help get a super smooth finish on your doors, windows, and timber trim. Give them each a light sand before applying the next coat. When you undercoat it raises the grain on raw timber and sanding will smooth this off and flatten out any brush strokes. When using gloss paint, sanding after the first finishing coat will reduce the shine and help the final coat bind.
A little paint is better than a lot
Don’t make the mistake of thinking the more paint you can get onto a brush or roller, the better. Overloading a brush or roller will generally result in more drips and runs in the paint. The more paint you use the longer it takes to try and even out. Too much paint on your brush or roller also makes doing the job a lot messier. Paint tends to fly off the brush or roller while you work. The paint gets further up the bristles and makes it harder to remove and makes the clean-up process longer.
Always remember, if you don't want to do the job yourself, Painting Newcastle is always here to give you the best job painting job by the best painters in Newcastle. Painters Newcastle is your go to place for the best painter in Newcastle.
Bathrooms, especially small bathrooms, can present a challenge when you are ready to decorate. They are, however, a great place to be bold and with a bit of imagination you can create a small space with a big impact using wallpaper.
Here’s some useful tips if you want to have a go at it yourself.
Clean and Prime the Walls
Wipe down and vacuum the walls to ensure they are clean and free from splatters, toothpaste and other bathroom stains. Remove all screws, mirrors, nails, wall light fixtures and light switch and power point plates. Patch any holes with filler plaster or spackle and a putty knife. Allow the filler to dry then sand smooth with a sandpaper and sanding block. Once wall is clean and smooth, use a roller and good quality brush to apply wallpaper primer to the walls. This will ensure good adhesion and result in a better quality job.
Measure Wall and Paper
Using a measuring tape, measure the wall from ceiling to top of baseboards. Transpose this measurement to first panel of wallpaper. Ensure you add about 2.5cm allowance at the top. Draw a straight line with a pencil and a clear ruler or square. This will enable you to get a straight line. Next, cut along line with sharp scissors or use a Stanley knife. Determine the starting point on the wall of the first wallpaper panel. Mark with a pencil. Then, using a pencil and a level, draw a straight vertical line. Most walls and ceilings aren't level or square, so it is useful to use this plumb line as a guide when hanging the first piece of paper.
Useful Tip: When working with a repeating pattern, place the starting plumb line in the centre of the main wall, at a corner, or up against cabinetry. If hanging a pattern or mural, start from left to right, or however it comes off the roll.
Soak and Hang Paper
Fill your bathtub or a separate tub with enough clean water so the wallpaper can be submerged completely. Holding the top and bottom sides of the wallpaper panel, fold each end to meet in the middle. Then fold each end, with the glued sides together, into the centre again to "book" the paper. Push booked paper into water until it is thoroughly covered. Ensure you read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the time the paper should be submerged. Once the correct time has passed, remove the paper from water and allow excess to drip off into tub. Unfold paper and press onto wall, lining up one edge with the previously pencilled line. Most wallpaper paste will allow you to shift once applied to wall, to ensure proper placement and removal of bubbles and wrinkles.
Useful Tip: If you are working in a room with high walls, this is definitely a job where two people are better than one.
Once the paper is correctly positioned, smooth out any bubbles and wrinkles with a rubber smoother or wallpaper brush. Smooth out from the centre of the paper toward the edges, pressing out extra glue and air bubbles as you go. The excess will drip down the walls, so have an old towel at the ready on the floor to catch it. Once smoothed, wipe paper's surface with a clean, damp cotton cloth or wallpaper sponge. Rinse the cloth or sponge and wring it out regularly to keep it clean.
Useful Tip: At this stage, the wallpaper will feel wet, but shouldn't be dripping or have visible glue on the surface.
In all the corners and near the ceiling and skirting boards, press a metal straight edge into corner and trim wallpaper to size using a sharp Stanley knife.
Useful Tip: If the knife is pulling the paper against the paper instead of cutting it, the blade is blunt and needs to be replaced. Make sure you have plenty of sharp blades on hand for this project.
When hanging wallpaper over a light switch plate, light fixture, outlet, sink, medicine cabinet, etc., it’s important you "dry fit" the paper prior to soaking in water to activate paste. With a small cut or pencil, mark where the fixture is located. Double check marks with measurements taken from the wall and then cut out the shape of the fixture with sharp scissors. Be conservative with the cuts and work carefully to ensure accuracy.
Useful Tip: When working with wet hands around a live electrical outlet or switch, there is a danger of electrical shock, so ensure the power is turned off at the junction box before you start smoothing the wallpaper around those areas.
Continue to Hang Paper
Continue by repeating steps 2-5 with next piece of wallpaper. To be sure you get a great result, it's a good idea to measure again from the baseboard and ceiling, since walls and ceilings are usually not level, square or plumb. The difference from one side of the room to another can be significant, especially in older homes. When cutting subsequent pieces of wallpaper, make sure you focus on the pattern or repeat. It's always better to be generous with the paper, as the paper can always be trimmed, but cannot be pieced back together without creating a seam. When hanging around an interior or exterior corner, press paper into or around the corner with rubber smoother. Make sure the wallpaper contacts the curves of the wall completely. Allow the paper to dry before replacing switch plates and fixtures.
Useful Tip: Most modern wallpapers are removable when used over wallpaper primers. Simply wet and peel off. Some can even be reused in another space.
Remember: If all of this seems to difficult or time consuming you can call us at Painting Newcastle. We will ensure your wallpapering job is done correctly and in a timely fashion. You can relax and let the team at painters Newcastle do it right!
Plastering is a job that needs some skill.
It is always best use a professional plasterer. Have a look through these handy tips which will help make your plastering project a success.
If you have decided to do a DIY plastering job, ensure you allow plenty of extra time to complete your project. You will also need to allow for extra dollars in your budget. It is a daunting task to take on a professional trade, so you need plenty of practice and plastering advice for a decent job.
Consider enrolling in a basic plastering course before starting your project.
If you a sure you want to do the job yourself, here’s a few tips for how to finish the plastering job.
Drywall plastering is great for building or repairing ceilings and interior walls. However, finishing drywall can be a daunting task. The following tips will help you complete jobs with ease.
Prepare your surfaces and always stir the compound mix. Mix your drywall compound at a slow speed until you notice the water and the drywall mix are smooth and even. When there is no liquid present, the drywall mix is ready to be used.
Smooth your surface
For a maximum smooth finish, drive all exposed screw-heads into the wall. Remove any loose or torn paper from drywall. Cover any joints and screw-heads.
Spreading drywall and taping
Start with a knife with about 5cm of drywall compound loaded onto it and put the drywall mix into any joints or screw-heads.
Hold the knife at approximately 25-degrees, smooth the drywall compound and scrape off any excess.
Unroll approximately three feet of paper tape, centering it over drywall seams, and gently press into the newly-applied drywall.
Bed the tape into the remaining sections of the joints, tearing the ends using the edge of the knife.
Smooth out the tape and scrape any excess drywall compound into a mud box. Don't forget to tape the inside corners with the drywall mixture, filling the seams and covering at least an inch on either side of the corners with the mixture.
Cover the outside corners of the bead head (approximately 30cm), and using the knife, place drywall compound on both sides of the bead.
Drying, sanding and priming drywall
Allow the compound to dry overnight. It will be dry when the drywall is uniformly white. You can then sand the drywall starting on the inside corners using a square-corner sanding block. Work your way to the remaining surface using a medium-grit pole sander, applying even, gentle pressure. Rougher areas may require more sanding, but make sure not to sand through the drywall to the paper tape. Once dried and sanded, you can then repeat the process, applying a second, or even a third coat of drywall. Once finished, prepare your surface for priming by wiping it down with a damp cloth.
If you want your paint job to look professional, avoid these amateur mistakes.
If you ask the professionals at Painting Newcastle, they will tell you the biggest difference between DIY and professional projects is lack of proper preparation.
DIY home painters want to jump straight into their project, because they’re excited to see the new colour on their walls — it’s a normal emotional reaction. But it’s important to understand that professional painters spend most of their time on preparation. Before you do anything else make sure you’ve properly cleaned walls, scraped off peels and cracks, applied painter’s tape carefully, and allowed any filler compound to dry before you start.
For the smoothest finish always start near the ceiling and work your way down. This will help can catch drips as you work.
Using cheap brushes and roller cover to save money
“You can have the best paint in the world but if you go cheap on your brushes and rollers the result will generally be poor.” the pros will tell you. Good brushes and roller covers will give you better coverage and save paint in the long run — plus if you take care of them, good quality brushes will last for years.
They are definitely worth the extra cost.
Using masking tape instead of proper painter’s tape
Professionals, like the ones at Painters Newcastle, spend the money for high-quality tape, and you should, too. Use a putty knife or mini scraper, not your finger, to remove air bubbles and seal the edges to prevent drips and ensure sharp lines.
Going without primer
Primer covers imperfections in the surface and gives you a smooth, long-lasting finish. It’s ok to use ‘paint and primer in one’ mixes if the surface was previously painted, is in good shape, and has a flat (non-glossy) finish. However, if you’re painting over a more difficult surface like plaster, wood, concrete, glossy paint, or stained/porous drywall, use a separate primer or top quality ‘all-in-one’ mix specifically designed to cover unpainted surfaces.
Using flat paint in high traffic areas.
Washable satins or semi-glosses are the best choice for places like closets and laundry rooms. You could also use a durable premium matte finish if you prefer that look.
Painting over high gloss paint without sanding
New paint needs some texture to adhere to, so make sure to lightly roughen any shiny surfaces with sandpaper. Then rinse the surface with clean water.
Dipping your brush too far into the paint
Put it only a third of the way in — you’ll get enough paint on your brush without wasting or pushing the paint deep into the bristles, which is difficult to clean.
Painting over wallpaper with water-based paint
You can paint over wallpaper, but make sure you use oil-based primer first. Water-based paints and primers can reactivate the wallpaper glue and cause unsightly peeling.
The job is finished and you’re tired, so you put the brushes in the garage and decide to deal with them later — bad idea! Protect your investment by washing your brushes thoroughly in water using dish-washing detergent. Then wrap them in airtight plastic wrap or aluminium foil then store them in their original packaging so they hold their shape.
Remember, if you don't want to do any of this yourself, contact us at Painting Newcastle for all your House Painting and Commercial Painting needs.
We have the best painters in Newcastle.
The Australian way of life is no better celebrated than relaxing on your freshly restored deck. A deck offers everything we love about living in Australia. Relaxing afternoons around the BBQ with family or mates, and a fantastic DIY opportunity! As they get older, timber decks become weathered, lifeless and are prone to being damaged. This is all a natural part of the aging process of timber. But don't panic! It's not difficult to keep your deck in tip top condition. How? Easy – re-stain your deck and it will look as good as new!
But before you put down your beer and get stuck into it, let’s take a look at some really handy deck staining tips. These tips are simple, quick and they will make all the difference between a great experience and a disaster. Doing a little bit of research will keep your deck staining project on the right track. The results will speak for themselves!
#1 Before you start, the most important part of any project is preparation!
Clean your deck! If you are an keen DIY'er, you will probably want to get stuck into it! And that's natural; the satisfaction of a DIY project well done is something that almost all homeowners love. But, like anything else, it’s all about preparation. If you set up the process correctly to begin with you will enjoy the job more and your result will be better! The first thing you need to do is clean your deck. And that doesn't mean a 'bit of' a hose down. You are going to have to roll up your sleeves an scrub. It's important to remove all mould, grease, oil, dirt, or wax. These all need to be removed completely and more than a simple sweep is required. NO shortcuts!
These surface contaminants can spoil the finish of your stain can prevent the stain from soaking into the timber. You will notice in a few week’s time and the job will be spoiled. So where do you start? We suggest starting with a comprehensive sweep of the area. If there are any obvious mould patches you can buy deck-cleaning products from your local hardware store. While you are there buy a still bristled brush which can be used to break through the more difficult grime.
#2 Only sand your deck if it is old or deteriorated: this is one of the most important deck staining tips! When most people think of ‘timber restoration’ the first thing that pops up is sanding. For most timber projects, sanding is the key to success. But not always. When it comes to deck restoration, sanding is generally not necessary. In fact, sometimes sanding can hinder a good result. So how do you know when to sand and when to leave it? The first question you need to ask yourself is, "Why am I restoring the deck?" Is it for looks or protection?
A well-stained deck gives protection from the elements. To get this protection, the stain needs to soak into the timber. If you sand the new decking timber, it will become too smooth to absorb the stain. As a result, the finish will be compromised. So always let your new deck weather for a season or two before you stain and only sand your deck if it is absolutely necessary.
#3 Choose your day carefully – rain is the enemy to your deck staining project! So you’ve done your research and your preparation. Your deck is ready to go! What now? Well, here’s one of the most important deck staining tips – even for the experienced: watch out for rain! Water is the worst ingredient in a deck-staining project. You can do your preparation to the highest standard and it still won’t save you from the rain. When you are planning a deck-staining project, study the weather forecast and keep informed of any changes. Keep an eye on that forecast for a day or two in advance. In a region like the Hunter Valley, the weather can change very quickly. So you want to be absolutely sure the will be no rain during your deck-staining fun!
#4 Select a suitable stain When it comes to deck staining tips, selecting the right stain can get a little technical.
If pretty generic stain is what you are looking for, then choosing your stain should be fairly straight forward. However, if you are a bit of a perfectionist, it may require a bit more thought to which stain you use? There are so many different stains available. You can get water-based, oil-based, different shades and with different drying times. The differences can be subtle, but for a lot of people the devil is in the detail. Take your time and look at your options. In some cases, you can even mix stains for the perfect finish. But we recommend speaking to an expert before you try anything too fancy – not all stains will mix well!
#5 What tools will you need? Deck staining is pretty straightforward, so you won't need many!
Any dedicated DIY fan will probably have an abundance of tools at the ready. But which ones do you really need? Luckily, not many! You will need a good broom, a sturdy brush, a deck applicator brush and a paintbrush. Of course, you can use what ever tools you think appropriate, but these are the basics! Exposed nails will have to be put in their place before the staining begins, so a hammer and a nail punch will be useful! Finally, if your deck is really in need of some touching up or maintenance, you will need some sanding equipment. But remember, sand only if it is absolutely necessary!
Easy eh! Yes, but if you just simply want the job done without any fuss, contact us at Painting Newcastle.
We are the painting and staining experts. Simply the best painters in Newcastle.
Here are a few painting tips you might find useful if you want to do your project yourself.
Although this is a Canadian video, the tips will easily convert to the way we do things here.
Watch this for some great tips if you are happy to do your painting job yourself otherwise our professionals at Painting Newcastle will always be at the ready to do it for you. So, when you think of painters in Newcastle, think of Painting Newcastle.
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What is Wallpaper Booking?
Booking Pre-glued Wallpaper
• Fill a water tray 2/3 full with water at room temperature.
• Roll the cut strip from bottom to top, paste side out (you should not see the pattern).
• Submerge rolled strip into the water tray.
• Soak for the amount of time recommended in the manufacturer’s hanging instructions, usually 30 seconds*.
• Slowly lift and unroll the paper onto a work table, making sure the paste is completely wet.
• Gently fold both ends, paste side in, towards the center of the strip, without creasing the folds.
This is known as "booking"*. You should see the pattern.
• Let the strip rest for the amount of time recommended in the manufacturer’s hanging instructions, usually about 2-5 minutes.
For Fine Décor prepasted wallpaper, refer to packaging for exact soak times (usually between 5-10 seconds).
Fine Décor prepasted wallpaper does not require booking.
Booking Unpasted Wallpaper
If needed, mix the paste according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• Lay the strip of wallpaper or mural face down on a clean work surface.
• Brush paste on to the top half of the strip. Gently fold that section back to meet the middle.
• Brush paste on the remaining half of the strip. Fold the bottom end in to meet the middle.
• Allow the paper to rest in this "booked" position for 10 minutes.
10 MUST KNOW THINGS BEFORE YOU HANG WALLPAPER
Choose the Right Type of Wallpaper for Your Needs
Choosing the right type of wallpaper is a must.
There are many types and style to choose from.
Areas where there is moisture like kitchens and bathrooms Vinyl is the best. Places like bedrooms and hallways are better for non-woven paper and fabric wallpaper.
Here’s a few useful items you will need to give your wallpaper hanging project that professional look!
Paint stripper helps remove paint or glue from the surface. It comes in grades suited to various levels of stripping. To protect your skin and lungs from harmful chemicals, make sure you wear gloves and a mask when using paint stripper.
These work like a debris magnet for cleaning off surfaces. Before you paint or finish a surface, it is crucial that it be clean and free of debris.
Wire wheel brush
These attached to a drill and works well for removing rust. A handheld wire brush will do the job if you don’t have a power drill.
A wallpaper steamer
If you are removing existing wallpaper you will need a steamer. They release steam onto the wallpaper which melts the glue and allows you to peel the paper off the wall. They work much like a clothes iron, but without a hot plate.
A heat gun
These are much like a hair dryer, used to melt existing paint from the wall. You will hold the gun close to the surface, and the paint will start to bubble off. Use a paint scraper to remove the softened paint.
Make sure you do not use a heat gun if the paint is lead-based.
I found this great video if you want to make your own sponge for painting. Great for kids activities or a serious paint job. This is great if you want to find an alternative to sea sponge for painting.